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How to choose an electric bike: classes, motors, batteries and fit

Class, motor, battery, frame and fit. Five decisions cover almost everything, and the right answers come from the ride you will make most often.

Published Oct 8, 20267 min read

The short answer

Start with the class your local rules allow: class 1 is pedal assist to 20 mph, class 2 adds a throttle up to 20 mph, and class 3 is pedal assist to 28 mph. Then pick a frame style for your trip, a motor type for your hills, and a battery with about double the watt hours your longest regular ride needs. Finish with fit, brakes and weight: a frame you can stand over, disc brakes, and a weight you can actually lift.

  • Most US states sort electric bikes into three classes. Rules on where each class may ride vary by state and city.
  • Hub motors are simple and low maintenance. Mid-drive motors climb better and feel more like a regular bicycle.
  • Battery size in watt hours (Wh) is the fairest way to compare range between two electric bikes.
  • Frame style and fit decide whether you enjoy riding it. Check the rider height range before anything else.

The three classes of electric bike

Most US states use a three-class system, and the class decides where you can ride. The classes are based on how the motor is switched on and the speed at which it stops helping.

  • Class 1: pedal assist to 20 mph. The motor only helps while you pedal and stops helping at 20 mph. In many places a class 1 electric bike may go wherever a regular bicycle can, including many bike paths.
  • Class 2: throttle to 20 mph. A throttle can move the electric bike without pedaling, and the motor stops helping at 20 mph. Most class 2 models also offer pedal assist.
  • Class 3: pedal assist to 28 mph. The motor helps while you pedal up to 28 mph. Many states keep class 3 off certain paths and trails, and some add a helmet rule or a minimum rider age.

Many states that use the classes also expect the motor to be rated at 750 watts or less. Some electric bikes are sold with more power, or with a setting that lifts the speed above the class limit, and that can take them outside the classes in some places.

Rules vary by state and city. Before you buy, check your state motor vehicle agency and your city website for where each class may ride, helmet rules and age limits. We cover the questions to ask in electric scooter laws: what to check before you ride, and most of them apply to electric bikes too.

Pedal assist and throttle

Pedal assist adds power as you pedal. A throttle gives power at the push of a lever or twist grip. Pedal assist feels like riding with a tailwind and stretches the battery further. A throttle is handy for pulling away from a light or resting your legs.

A cadence sensor switches the motor on when the pedals turn, giving an easy, even push. A torque sensor measures how hard you press, so the help rises and falls with your effort. It feels more natural and usually comes on more expensive models.

Hub motor or mid-drive motor

  • Hub motor. The motor sits in the center of the rear wheel, or sometimes the front. It works separately from the chain and gears, needs very little upkeep and pairs well with a throttle. It is the most common type and usually costs less.
  • Mid-drive motor. The motor sits between the pedals and drives the chain. Working through the gears, it climbs steep hills well and keeps the weight low and central. The trade off is more chain and gear wear, and a higher price.

For flat to rolling routes, a hub motor does the job well. For long, steep hills, or a ride that feels closest to a regular bicycle, look at a mid-drive. Makers list motor power as either a continuous or a peak rating, so two figures are not always measured the same way.

Battery size and range

Watt hours tell you how much energy the battery holds. Multiply the voltage by the amp hours: a 48V 14Ah pack holds 672Wh. The higher the number, the further you can go, and the more the battery weighs.

Advertised range is usually measured in the lowest assist level, on flat ground, with a light rider. The throttle, high assist levels, headwinds and cold all bring it down. As a rough guide, an electric bike ridden with moderate pedaling uses around 15 to 30Wh per mile, and more on the throttle alone.

  • Pick an advertised range about double your longest regular round trip. You keep a margin as the battery ages.
  • A removable battery can be charged indoors and taken with you when you lock up outside.
  • Look for a battery system tested to a recognized safety standard, such as UL 2849 for electric bikes, and charge only with the supplied charger.
Maker figures for electric bikes in our catalog, from a folding commuter to a fat tire model
ModelTop speed (mph)Range (miles)Motor power (W)
Hiboy C1 Folding Electric Bike2026.2648
Hiboy EX9 Urban Commuter Electric Bike2062750
Speedway Riders Q3 750W Fat Tire Electric Bike2845750
Segway Myon Electric Bike28801,500
Segway Xafari Electric Bike2088750
The Dodge Electric Bicycle28741,000

Maker figures, checked September 2026. Real range and speed depend on rider weight, terrain, temperature and riding mode.

Frame styles

  • Commuter. An upright position, fenders, lights and often a rear rack. Built for daily trips on paved roads.
  • Fat tire. Tires about 4 inches wide grip and cushion on sand, gravel, snow and broken pavement, but add weight and cost some range on pavement.
  • Cargo. A longer frame or a front box for groceries, bags or child seats. Check the maximum payload, which covers you and everything you carry, and where you will store it.
  • Step-through. A low frame you step through instead of swinging a leg over. Easy to get on and off, and it fits a wide range of heights.
  • Folding. Smaller wheels, often 20 inches, and a frame that folds for a trunk, a closet or a train. Firmer over bumps, and still heavier than most people expect.

Many models mix styles, such as a fat tire step-through. Choose for the trip you make most often, not the one you take once a year.

Sizing and fit

An electric bike that fits is safer and far more comfortable. Most product pages list a rider height range. Start there.

  • Standover. Standing over the frame with both feet flat, you should have some clearance. Step-through frames make this easy.
  • Saddle height. At the bottom of the pedal stroke your leg should be almost straight, with a slight bend at the knee.
  • Reach. You should hold the handlebar with relaxed arms and a slight bend at the elbow, without stretching.

Many electric bikes come in one frame size with an adjustable seat post, which suits most riders of average height. If you are very tall or quite short, check the listed height range carefully, or ask us before you order.

Brakes

An electric bike is heavier and often faster than a regular bicycle, so the brakes matter. Look for disc brakes on both wheels. Hydraulic discs need less hand effort and stay consistent on long descents. Mechanical discs work well and are easy to adjust at any bike shop. Most models also have brake levers that cut the motor the moment you pull them.

Weight and carrying

Most electric bikes weigh 50 to 80 pounds, and fat tire and cargo models can go well past that. On flat ground you will never notice. Up stairs, into an elevator or onto a car rack, you will. Taking the battery out makes lifting easier, and any car rack needs to be rated for the weight. In a walk-up, a lighter commuter or folding model may suit you better than a bigger battery.

A short checklist before you buy

  • A class that your state and city allow on the roads and paths you plan to use.
  • A hub motor for flat to rolling routes, or a mid-drive for steep hills.
  • An advertised range about double your longest regular round trip.
  • A frame style that suits your trip, and a rider height range that includes you.
  • Disc brakes front and rear.
  • A weight you can lift wherever you need to lift it.

Browse every model in the electric bike shop. Still deciding between an electric bike and an electric scooter? Read electric scooter vs electric bike. Every order ships free to the lower 48 states, and you can split the cost with Pay in 4 or a monthly plan.

Related guides: Hub vs mid drive motor: how each e-bike motor works, climbs and rides and Throttle vs pedal assist: how each e-bike mode works and who it suits.

Questions riders ask

Do I need a license to ride an electric bike?

In many states an electric bike that fits one of the three classes is treated much like a bicycle, with no license or registration. Rules vary by state and city, so check your state motor vehicle agency before you ride.

Which class of electric bike should I buy?

Class 1 is allowed in the most places. Class 2 adds a throttle for easy starts. Class 3 suits longer road commutes but is kept off some paths. Choose the class that fits the roads and paths you will actually use.

Is a hub motor or a mid-drive motor better?

Neither is better for everyone. A hub motor is simpler, needs less upkeep and suits flat to rolling routes. A mid-drive climbs steep hills better and feels more like a regular bicycle.

How long does an electric bike battery last?

A lithium-ion battery slowly loses capacity over hundreds of charge cycles, and with good care it lasts several years. Our battery care guide covers charging and storage, and the advice applies to electric bikes too.

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