Electric dirt bike maintenance: a checklist for before, after and every month

What is different from a gas dirt bike

There is no engine oil, air filter, spark plug, carburetor or fuel to look after. That removes most of the routine work. What stays is everything between the motor and the dirt, and an electric motor makes that work harder: full torque arrives the moment you twist the throttle, which loads the chain, sprockets and rear tire hard. The battery adds weight, and the electronics do not like high pressure water.

Keep the owner’s manual handy. It lists the torque figures, tire pressures, fluids and service intervals for your bike, and it always wins over a general guide like this one.

Before every ride

• Tires: check pressure with a gauge and stay within the maker’s range. Look for cuts and anything stuck in the tread.
• Brakes: squeeze both levers. They should feel firm, not spongy, and stop the bike when you push it forward.
• Chain: check the slack against the figure in your manual and make sure the chain is lubricated.
• Controls: the throttle should snap back when you let go, and the kill switch and mode switch should work.
• Wheels and axles: grab each wheel and rock it side to side. There should be no play.
• Battery: charged, and if it is swappable, locked firmly in place.
• Lights and signals on a road legal bike, plus the horn and mirrors.

After every ride

• Wash off mud before it dries, using the method below.
• Dry the bike, then lube the chain.
• Wipe the fork and shock shafts clean and look for oil on the seals.
• Look over the frame, levers, footpegs and wiring for damage, rubbing or loose parts.
• Let the battery cool, then charge it.

How to wash without damaging the electronics

Water resistance ratings describe rain and splashes, not a pressure washer. The Riding’times GT73 is rated IPX4, which covers splashing water. The Wilson’s MX40 is rated IPX5, and the NAVEE Storm X IP65, which cover water jets from a nozzle. A pressure washer is far stronger than any of those tests and can force water past seals into the motor, controller, battery and connectors.

• Turn the bike off and close or cover the charging port.
• If the battery is removable and your manual allows it, take it out and keep it dry.
• Soak dried mud with a gentle garden hose spray, then loosen it with a soft brush and a mild bike cleaner.
• Keep the spray away from the motor, controller, display, battery bay and plugs.
• Rinse from the top down, then dry with a towel or a leaf blower.
• Lube the chain, and test the brakes before you ride, because wet pads grip less at first.

Chain, belt and sprockets

A chain that is too tight wears out bearings, and one that is too loose can jump off. Check slack at the middle of the lower run, with the bike on its wheels, against the figure in your manual. Clean the chain when it gets gritty and lube it after every wash and every wet ride.

Look at the sprocket teeth. Hooked or pointed teeth mean the chain and sprockets are worn, and they are usually replaced together. If your bike uses a belt, keep it at the right tension, look for cracks or missing teeth, and do not lube it.

Some bikes add a gearbox between the motor and the chain, as the Talaria Sting family does. Check your manual for any gearbox oil interval.

Brakes

Mud and grit wear brake pads much faster than pavement does. Check pad thickness every month, and replace pads before the friction material gets thin. Keep chain lube and cleaners off the discs.

Hydraulic brakes, like the Magura MT-5 brakes on the Talaria Sting R MX4 Expert, use one specific type of fluid. Use only the fluid your maker names, because the wrong type can damage the seals. If a lever turns spongy or pulls closer to the bar, the system may need bleeding.

Tires, wheels and spokes

Tire pressure changes grip, comfort and range. Riders often run lower pressure on soft trails for grip, but stay inside the maker’s range to avoid pinch flats and rim damage. Spoked wheels loosen over time, especially on a new bike. Tap each spoke with a small tool: a dull sound among bright ones points to a loose spoke. Tighten spokes evenly, or have a shop true the wheel.

Suspension and bearings

• Seals: wipe the fork and shock shafts after every ride. Oil on a shaft means a seal is leaking.
• Settings: if your suspension is adjustable, as on the Talaria Sting R MX4 Expert, set sag for the rider’s weight and write down your settings.
• Air suspension: check pressure regularly with a shock pump. The Talaria Komodo 2025 uses an air fork and an air rear shock.
• Steering bearings: lift the front wheel and turn the bars slowly. Any notch or roughness needs attention.
• Swingarm and linkage bearings: check for play and grease them at the interval your manual gives.
• Fork and shock service: fork oil and seals wear out with hours of riding. Follow your maker’s service interval.

Bolts and fasteners

Vibration and jumps loosen bolts, and new bikes settle in during the first few rides. Check these every month, and after the first couple of rides on a new bike:

• Axle nuts, and the brake caliper and disc bolts.
• Handlebar clamps and the fork clamps.
• Footpegs, the motor mount and the sprocket bolts.
• The swingarm pivot and shock bolts.
• The battery mount or latch.

Use a torque wrench and the figures from your manual. Too tight can strip threads just as too loose can let a part fall off.

Battery and charger care

The battery is the most valuable part of the bike, and the easiest to look after.

• Charge with the charger that came with the bike. Some bikes, like the Riding’times GT73, come with two chargers for two batteries.
• Charge indoors on a hard, non-flammable surface, at room temperature, and stay nearby.
• Let a hot battery cool after a hard ride before you plug it in, and let a cold one warm up.
• Check the plugs and battery contacts for dirt, corrosion or bent pins, especially on swappable batteries.
• Stop using a battery that is swollen, cracked, leaking or smells odd, and contact us or the maker.

For more on charging, range and how long a pack lasts, read our guide to electric dirt bike range and our battery care guide.

Storage between rides and seasons

• Store the bike clean and dry, somewhere cool and above freezing.
• Keep the battery partly charged, around half, rather than full or empty, unless your manual says otherwise.
• Check the charge once a month and top it up if it drops.
• Put the bike on a stand to take weight off the tires and suspension, and lube the chain.
• Use a breathable cover, not a plastic sheet that traps moisture.

The monthly checklist

• Brake pad thickness, lever feel and fluid level.
• Chain wear, sprocket teeth and chain slack.
• Spoke tension and wheel bearing play.
• Steering, swingarm and linkage bearings.
• Fork and shock seals, and air pressure on air suspension.
• Bolts on the list above.
• Wiring, plugs and the charging port.
• Tire tread and sidewalls.

Riding a road legal bike? Lights, signals, horn and mirrors are part of the job too, as our guide to street legal electric dirt bikes explains. If something feels wrong with the brakes, battery or electrics, stop riding and contact us. New to the sport? Start with electric dirt bikes for beginners.

Questions riders ask